Back in DR

It is good to be back in Samana, Dominican Republic. This is my favourite season here. Not too hot. In fact, sometimes I even need a sheet to keep warm in bed at night. It is like this, here in the hills, until April.  This also means it is a good time for doing stuff outdoors without suffering from overheating.

I have a met a bunch of mountain bikers in Las Terrenas. The group meets at the the Real Bike shop, a bike shop run by a friendly ebullient Swiss bloke called Luis. He is in his mid fifties and as tough as nails. He is joined by a mixed bunch of blokes, mainly expats from Spain, France, Italy, Slovenia, and Dominicans, of all ages, although old farts like me are over-represented. Is this the new demographic? Old a lot of them might be, but they make up for that with tenacity, willpower , hard-earned stamina and endurance, and the love of the challenge.

So I no longer have to venture out into the hills on my jack jones (in case you don't know, that is Cockney rhyming slang for on your own), but can get lost in company. Only last Saturday we seemed to be well lost -- not quite, we could have gone back the way we came, but as there was only one hour of daylight left, that option was no longer open -- trying to connect up with a trail we knew had to be relatively close as the crow flies, but impossible to get to in view of the apparently impenetrable wall of cliffs on three sides. Despite incessant rainfall and a badly timed flat tyre we found a mule trail leading up and over. We then had to race the clock in the mud, mainly downhill along water-logged trails. That is what I call fun, even though the next day I had to dismantle my axles and ball races to clean out the mud.

Spring in Rodalquilar, Cabo de Gata -- a perfect place for blasting away the winter blues and hitting the trails

Spring in southern Spain while it is still winter in northern Europe

After  overwintering in the Dominican Republic I spent a frozen two weeks in northern Germany. Although it was officially spring, it was the coldest spring on record.  Siberian conditions. All my friends were cracking up, desperate to get outside after a long winter spent spinning and doing other stuff indoors for six months.

Rodalquilar in spring

Luckily for me I made it to southern Spain and swapped icy winds for the early spring of the desert of Almeria. Have you ever seen a green desert? For a couple of months this region goes through a metamorphosis, especially the Nature Park Cabo de Gata – Nijar, a paradise for nature buffs into endemisms and niche plant life (check this out) as well as rugged, unspoiled natural beauty.

Cabo de Gata coastline near Rodalquilar

Every day I hit the mountain trails I discover new plants blossoming and blooming. It is a miracle of nature – especially so, as it hasn't really rained here for a couple of years.  Every day and throughout the day the light is constantly changing. And at night, the stars shine so brightly it is even possible to navigate the broader trails. With a full moon visibility is excellent and details are crisp – all in all the nightscape is stunning. The same place yet a different, eerie world. That is what I like about this neck of the woods (or neck of the rocks, given the dearth of trees). 

From September to June temperatures here are great for doing stuff out doors. Day in day out. Admittedly, temperatures can drop to around plus 10°C on those rare days the sun doesn't shine (not many of those either, check out the bit on climate here). This climate is technically known as subtropical semi-arid.  Which translates into outstanding conditions for outdoor activities throughout winter -- unlike in the rest of the Spanish interior let alone in northern Europe.

View of Rodalquilar with defunct infrastructure for leaching the gold

As I am based in the village of Rodalquilar, an old gold-mining village in the heart of the Parque Natural Cabo de Gata – Nijar, this is where I set out on rides and runs. From June to November the sea is warm enough for extended swimming too. A great combination, especially for triathletes.  But from December to May you will need a full body swim suit and cap.

While I am a keen XC mountain biker with a penchant for technical downhill most of the routes I describe here and in later blogs are great for hiking and trail running – if it is hard core technical I will point it out. For road cyclists the roads in the park are in very good condition, smooth as a baby’s bum,  and usually very quiet, which means fun for avid road bikers. Check this out.

A group of mountain bikers on the Cinto to Fraile trail

As my 130 mm front suspension has started bottoming out I am only doing the less technical routes --which are still fun – until I can source a replacement (remember I am in the boondocks and there ain’t a bike shop worth shaking a stick at for miles  -- OK in Almeria. But I source my gear on eBay anyway, so I am looking for good opportunities without spending a small fortune).

There is an active mountain biking club based in Campohermoso (18 kms away, outside the Parque Natural). These guys meet every Sunday at about 8 am for a ride in the mountains nearby. This means that they sometimes venture into the park, but mostly choose trails in Sierra Alhamilla and less frequently Sierra  Cabrera. This is a mixed bunch, but a couple of the guys are as tough as nails, ex-road racers, so not so good on technical ascents and descents but have the leg power to haul ass. All in all a good group to make contact with and to get to know new routes.  Check this out.  On Saturdays the hard core xc bikers in the club meet for more challenging rides. So you can take your pick. They have also posted a number of youtube videos. Like this one: 

I mentioned the gold mines. The gold mines and Rodalquilar go together, and the volcanism which created Sierra de Gata is what lies behind the origin of the gold. Gold has been mined in Rodalquilar since the Phoenicians discovered the metal here thousands of years ago. Early last century saw the heyday of gold mining in Rodalquilar – a British company had the concession before giving up when Franco came to power. As a result of the British presence, the main square in the village is called Plaza el Tenis (that is how it is spelled – the Spaniards have a knack for changing spelling, like wiken for weekend and moden for modem), because the Scottish engineer’s wife and daughter would play tennis there and show a bit of leg to local lads who would otherwise not normally get to see anything in the way of female flesh -- the local lasses and ladies wore full-body attire, although they didn’t go as far as wearing burqas. The legacy of the gold mines and other mining activities riddles the park. It is almost impossible to go on a sortie on foot or bike in the mountains without coming across abandoned galleries and shafts, deserted mining buildings, even chimneys from the furnaces to extract metals.

So although I have probably explored most tracks in the park, every time I take a trail it is still a route of discovery. And in spring the sight of delicate desert flowers making a brief but bold statement is part of the attraction. And then there are the birds. For instance, partridges or woodcocks roam the park in pairs and flocks, making off in a hasty winged retreat when approached. Occasionally eagles soar overhead. Bee eaters with their brilliant metallic blue and green colouring seem to favour the trees near abandoned cottages – perhaps there are more bees near ruined, once-cultivated homesteads.  Another eye catching bird, flashing its marvelous crest, is the hoopoe, often found in pairs in my garden and on the trails.

Where was I? Oh, yes, I suppose I had 

better describe one of my favourite rides.

Track through the mines, with Cerro Cinto in background

Great trail leading to valley of Rodalquilar

This one goes straight past the botanical gardens through the old mining works on the edge of Rodalquilar, opening up great views and vistas of the valley of Rodalquilar before taking you into the craggy landscape of Cerro del Cinto, where most of the gold was mined. This climb is fairly gentle. At the top you are suddenly on the broad valley of Cortijo del Fraile, the real life setting for Frederico Garcia Lorca’s Blood Weddin -- a famous landmark in scandalous disrepair (shame on all parties involved). After Cortijo Montano the route joins the old tarmac road – no traffic thanks to the new road – to Hortichuelas. Here too you are suddenly confronted with spectacular views of the Cerro del Cinto from a completely different angle. After a beautiful and easy descent a right turn takes you along a moderately technical trail. At worst you might have to push the bike a few yards up a small climb.This valley, Rambla del Granadillo, is remarkable because of its lush vegetation along the dry river course. As the name implies, pomegranates grow here and can be picked end of September. After re-emerging in the valley of Rodalquilar there is a short but challenging climb and a mildly technical descent to come out at the back of the head office of the park administration. From here it is a gentle downhill back to the starting point – which surprise, surprise is my house, which you can rent if you feel like spending a week or so with family or with biking or running mates. It goes without saying that I can highly recommend it. But feel free to look for alternative accommodation. I am sure you will come to the justifiable conclusion that my place is still the best deal in terms of facilities, comfort, beauty and tranquility.

Partial view of Cortijo la Negrita

If you want to find more routes in and around Rodalquilar and Cabo de Gata one of the best sites is http://www.bikemap.net/. They have a sister page for runners  called http://www.runmap.net, although in my humble opinion hikers and trail runners can safely use all mtb xc trails listed on bikemap.net.

Remember, if you want to get some decent outdoor stuff in -- running, cycling whatever -- over the shabby winter months, this area is
a great place and there are lots of bargain flights available. Ryanair, Easyjet and Monarch fly to Almeria. Car hire is usually dirt cheap in the off season. If you come as a biggish group, I can arrange for a pick up with a bike trailer for ten bikes. You can also check out my pal Martin’s site, as he not only offers guided tours (I don’t) and bike hire but also parapenting (or paragliding).

And if you want to mix your trail stuff with sail boarding or kite surfing, this is also a fine place. Check out windguru and look for Los Genoveses, Los Escullos, Cabo de Gata.

Tour del Sufrimiento -- or no gain without pain

Staying in shape (pear shape?) and feeling good all year round. Even if you are an old fart like me. There is plenty of advice out there, so I aim to avoid giving any. This is not about technique or routines, just about places I know that make doing stuff outside fun, that somehow inject that extra energy or whatever it is, to make you get off your backside and hit the trails, on bike, walking or running, and slip into the sea for a bit of gentle cross training or safe open water swimming.

Typical coconut plamscape, Arroy Surdido, Samana

Where to start? I am right now in Samana, Dominican Republic.  A mountainous peninsula with the Atlantic on one side and the Bay of Samana on the other. On the Atlantic side most beaches are long and protected by coral reefs, calming the breakers and making swimming safe. On the bay side, the beaches are smaller, but also safe. The mountains are green – it rains a lot – and riddled with tracks and trails. These are mostly only known to the people who work the fields, as they use the tracks for getting in and getting their produce out on mule back. A word of caution! Most trails are not suited for the faint hearted, as they become treacherous in the rain. And like I said, it rains a lot. Notwithstanding that, there are plenty of all weather options and after a few days of sun most trails become doable. 

You know who with Samana backdrop

My penchant is cross-country mountain biking with a view to discovering new trails and good single-track, technical downhill routes. Most of the routes I describe are great for trail running and hiking. In fact some are more suitable for the latter two. Check out this for an idea of the fun to be had doing stuff outdoors in Samana

Before I get to specific routes, most of which I have posted on bikemap.net, I want to explain that I have lived on and off in the south of Spain, in the coastal mountains of Cabo de Gata; in Samana; in Cuenca, Ecuador; Trinidad and more recently Oxford. Yes, there is even some fun cross-country to be had in Oxford. So I have had time to try out lots of trails and get in some serious swimming. I have to say, my favourite place for swimming is Cabo de Gata, on account of the amazingly clear waters. The only downsides are the occasional stinger jellyfish invasions and the cold water from December to May. Samana comes next in the swimming stakes, thanks to the great beaches for good gentle open water swimming off Portillo and Punta Popy, to mention only a few cool spots. Cuenca lies in the mountains. There  ain't  no beaches. But to make up for it there is a great Olympic-sized pool. And swimming 40 lengths at 2500 metres elevation is brilliant altitude training (more on altitude training and Cuenca in later blogs, you are warned!). Trinidad has good swimming beaches, only sometimes the traffic jams make getting there no fun. I used to hike or bike over from Maracas valley to Maracas Bay or Las Cuevas beach to avoid the snarl ups.  And, no, there ain't  no beaches in Oxford either. But then again, you can’t even consider all-year-around outdoor activities there in the first place. On the contrary, Oxford is a proxy for the audience my blog is meant to reach. Because try as you might in Oxford, although you can have fun in the summer on the trails, you will need a decent winter break if you want to keep up the biking, running or Ocean swimming, or whatever it is you like to do outside.

Back to the DR. I recently took part in a regular cross-country mountain bike event called, appropriately, the Tour del Sufrimiento. No need to translate that. My friend Rafael Pouriet of PlanetBike has been organising this event since 1996. I first went in 2011. I wish I had found out about it earlier. It is very low key event in that it is not widely advertised or marketed. In fact it is only really known to insiders. And as I live a secluded life in Samana I managed to ride the local trails in blissful unawareness until 2010 of this three-day challenge in the central mountains of the Dominican Republic.

The Tour del Sufrimiento is held at the end of January every year. It takes you on trails and dirt roads (apart from the start and finish) from Jarabacoa to Constanza, Constanza to San Jose de Ocoa, and on the third day to Santo Domingo. The accumulated vertical climb is around 2000 metres every day. Each day there is an official time trial of about one hour’s ascent. The judges are officials from the National Cycling Federation. A lot of people don’t bother with the time trials, as their main concern is just making it. And lots don’t. I don’t have the official figures, but from my own observations I’d guess only about a half of those who set out make it all the way on bike. Some give up from complete exhaustion. Some because the bike broke. All kinds of people take part. From young, aspiring MTB cross-country racers to seasoned, die-hard mountain bikers and everything in between. Mostly blokes.

Sort of line up in Jarabacoa at start of the Tour 

The terrain is tough, the ascents are steep, temperatures range from plus thirties to below ten (at 2200 metres). Factor in the wind chill effect and it can get pretty cold, especially downhill. It can rain heavily too. And the sun can beat down on you. So you have to be prepared for extremes.

Basically Rafael offers various packages – from registration only to hotel accommodation (2 nights) with transportation of bags. And even a bus transfer from Santo Domingo to Jarabacoa for the start. For details in Spanish check this out.

Here are the costs -- if you think about it, it is probably the best deal you can find anywhere on this planet. Although there are events in Ecuador that don't cost an arm and a leg and are well worth taking part in (more in later blogs I promise):

Registration                                                    RD$2,500

With accommodation 1 night                              RD$ 3,200.00            

With accommodation  2 nights                           RD$ 3,900 or USD 200 for foreigners

With accommodation  2 nights, transfer from SD  RD$ 4,600 or USD 250 for foreigners

This year, like the two previous years, the weather was close to perfect. No or little rain, not too much mud on the critical sections, not too much sun. Most people arrive early on the day of the event to set off from Jarabacoa around 9 am. I stay at a small family run hostel   located between Rancho Baiguate (where the event usually kicks off)  and the centre of Jarabacoa. Here is the route I plugged into bikemap.net: You can find the GPS routes for the other two days there too.

By the way, there are the usual categories, from Open  (which includes Elite), Master A, B and C (me) and something called Sports (usually slower than Master C). The riders who want to compete in the time trial wait until they are given the starter’s order -- not a free-for-all, rather each rider is released at one minute intervals, starting with the nominally slowest on the first day, i.e. Sports. The Open or Elite start last. Only about half choose to compete. The rest set off after the break at la Cienega at their own pace. After all, all they are interested in, apart from enjoying the scenery, is getting to Constanza before dark.

Kids on the track -- pic courtesy montyculebramtb

The time trial is mostly climbing, with a few sections where you can get some speed up before you hit the next ascent. It takes a good hour (or 1 hour and 20 minutes in my case) to get to the finishing flag. It is quite a haul. After a break at the same spot, where the organisers provide drink and fruits (lots of bananas, sliced pineapple, honeydew melon and water melon) and usually chunks of rustic local cake or honey on slices of bread it is a good idea to get moving. It can get a bit chilly if the sun is hidden behind the clouds and there is still a long way to go before Constanza.

Hopefully the luggage arrives in Constanza before you do. When you get to the finish there are more drinks and cake and fruit. Accommodation is in small hotels. Not exactly five-star, but after a day in the saddle who cares? Food is all comida criolla, i.e. local. This year everyone was invited to a free pasta nosh up at the medal giving ceremony for the day’s winners. If you like spaghetti in tomato sauce, go for it. Otherwise there are a couple of places that do tasty food. And there is always pizza in a friendly pizzeria in the main drag.

Photo opp Contanza park

Day 2 starts off in the park. Big photo session. Then it is off in the direction of San Jose de Ocoa. This area is the country’s market garden. Full of fields of vegetables.  Mountains on all sides.  After about an hour and half there is the official entrance to the national park. This is where the time trial starts (after a longish break). The trail takes you to Valle Nuevo – reminiscent of the paramo landscapes of the Andes. At 2200 metres or so above sea level the mix of steppe and forest is impressive. After an hour at this elevation the dirt road starts to drop -- 22 kilometres of exhilarating downhill (not technical) to the desert like landscape at the base. 

Rafael (Planet Bike) running the lights at start of time trial day 3

Photo:  montyculebramtb

After a night in San Jose de Ocoa you start the toughest section of the whole event. The time trial starts in San Jose. For the uninitiated it is a rather daunting experience, because you ride straight through two sets of traffic lights, which always seem to be on red. And there is no friendly Mr Plod to hold back the traffic from either side of the main road. Scary. Assuming you survive this gauntlet after 2 klicks of main road you hit the climb, which seems easy enough at first. But it gets steep, especially after you leave the tarmac and peddle up dirt. The climb is a good hour’s slog. After the usual fruit and water stop at the finish of the third time trial the route is down and up three more times -- the accumulated ascent is 2500 metres -- before hitting the coastal plain and the coastal heat.  And only another 50 kilometres to go, only now it is along the motorway. No kidding. For this bit the best strategy is to find a big group of riders who know how to slipstream. Then it is fast and fun.

Winners in each category, final 

The finish with all the usual paraphernalia is in Santo Domingo. Certificates for those who made it, and a medal. Never seen so many medals. And as, at a guess, only half the starters finish on their bikes there are loadsa medals left over for the kids to play with. And you can tuck in and replace carbs with hot dogs and some local specialities.

All in all a great event. Every one is friendly. You get to meet people. You get to see some amazing scenery. You get to sleep in places you would probably not otherwise consider. And you eat so many bananas you won’t want to see another banana for another year. Honest. So if the idea of taking a winter break and getting in some serious cross-country mountain biking grabs you, I can highly recommend the Tour del Sufrimiento.

Of course, the DR and especially the peninsula of Samana offer good all-year-round sporting opportunities apart from bike riding (road and off road) and swimming. Take kite boarding in El Portillo for instance (check out the windguru or windfinder sites for the winds there). Mind you, you can’t beat Cabarete for good winds – it is no surprise to find Cabarete it is a regular venue for world sail boarding and kite boarding championships. Check this out. 

But if you can’t afford the flight to the DR, the best winter grounds for training and keeping fit I know are to be found in southern Spain, and in Cabo de Gata in particular.  Just have a look at this to whet your appetite.  From the UK there are good flights directly to Almeria, and to Murica, where car hire is sometime incredibly cheap – check this out. I am rather partisan when it comes to recommending places to stay as I rent my own place out when I am not there. It is, objectively,  er subjectively, a great gaff with own garden and plenty of room to swing a cat. Check it out, don’t take my word for it.  It is a great place for families and for groups of friends. You can also google Rodalquilar (slap bang in the middle of the Parque Natural Cabo de Gata and best base for biking and running – also features great beach close by at El Playazo) to find out more. And check out Bikemap.net for running and biking routes. Here is a favourite of mine.  And the fun doesn't stop with xc mtb riding, road biking, trail running, hiking and swimming. Old fashioned wind surfing aka sail boarding (again check out windguru for local beaches like Los Genoveses and Cabo de Gata) is mind-blowingly good with poniente and levante  winds. Scuba diving is so good, it is like taking drugs. Parapenting, another mind expanding experience, is there to be had. Warning, these sports can be addictive.

Go for it. 

If you want to contact me, feel free.